Kayaking puts you in places that deserve to be photographed — sunrise reflections on glass-calm water, wildlife encounters that land-based photographers never see, and perspectives of coastlines and rivers that look completely different from water level. But cameras and water are natural enemies. This guide covers how to mount, protect, and use cameras effectively while paddling.
Gear track mounts use the T-slot tracks built into most fishing and touring kayaks. A RAM mount or Scotty mount attached to the track gives you a ball-and-socket joint that positions the camera at any angle. These are the most stable and adjustable option because they connect directly to the kayak's structure.
Suction cup mounts stick to the hull surface. They work well on smooth, clean fiberglass and polyethylene but can detach in rough water or extreme heat. Always tether the camera separately — never trust suction alone on water.
Flexible arm mounts (like the GoPro Jaws flex clamp) grip seat frames, paddle shafts, or PFD straps. They offer the most creative angle options but are less stable than track-mounted systems. Best for short clips rather than continuous recording.
Helmet and body mounts give true POV footage. Chest harness mounts produce the most stable body-mounted footage because the chest moves less than the head. Head mounts capture where you are looking but amplify every head turn and bump.
Action cameras like GoPro are waterproof without a case — just make sure the battery and port doors are fully sealed. Mirrorless and DSLR cameras need waterproof housings (Aquapac, DiCAPac, or hard housings from Ikelite) that allow button and dial operation through sealed membranes or mechanical linkages.
Smartphones live in waterproof cases. The Catalyst or LifeProof cases allow touchscreen operation underwater. Budget options like Mpow pouches work for splash protection but degrade touchscreen responsiveness. Regardless of case, tether the phone to your PFD or kayak.
Store spare lenses, batteries, and memory cards in a small dry bag inside your hatch. Moisture and salt spray corrode lens contacts and battery terminals. A silica gel packet inside the dry bag absorbs residual humidity.
Stability is the primary challenge. Kayaks rock continuously, and that motion transfers directly to your camera. Use wide-angle lenses (which hide motion better than telephoto), turn on image stabilization, and brace your elbows against the kayak's gunwale or your body when shooting handheld. For video, mount the camera low on the bow where the kayak's rotation center is closest — this minimizes visible rocking.
Light on water is extreme. The surface reflects sun directly into your lens, creating blown-out highlights and silhouetted subjects. Shoot with the sun behind you or at a 45-degree angle. A polarizing filter (if your camera accepts them) cuts surface glare and reveals underwater detail. Shoot during golden hour (the first and last hour of sunlight) for the most dramatic colors and softest light.
Take way more shots than you think you need. Waves, spray, wind, and kayak motion guarantee that many frames will be slightly off. A burst mode that fires five to ten frames per second dramatically increases your keeper rate.
A GoPro or similar action camera is the most practical choice — small, waterproof, wide-angle, and easy to mount. For higher image quality, a mirrorless camera in a waterproof case gives DSLR-quality images with weather protection. Smartphones in quality waterproof cases are the most accessible option for casual photographers.
The most popular mount points are the bow (forward-facing POV), the cockpit rim (paddler perspective), and the stern (looking back at your wake). GoPro mounts on a flexible arm attached to a gear track or RAM mount give the most versatility. Avoid mounting too high — elevated cameras amplify every kayak motion, creating shaky footage.
Waterproof housings (Aquapac, DiCAPac) protect cameras during splashes and rain. Dry bags with clear windows let you shoot through the bag in light spray. Tether every camera to the kayak with a leash — if it goes overboard, you need to retrieve it immediately before it sinks.